For a standard, professional installation of a new asphalt driveway, homeowners can generally expect to pay between $7 and $13 per square foot. This range typically covers a complete job, including basic site preparation, materials, and labor for a new installation on a prepared sub-base. Prices can fluctuate based on your location, the complexity of the job, and the current price of crude oil, which affects asphalt (bitumen) the price.

Total Project Examples

Based on the $7-$13 per square foot range, here are some estimates for different driveway sizes:

• Small Driveway (e.g., 400 sq ft, typical for a one-car garage with a short approach): $2,800 – $5,200
• Average Driveway (e.g., 600 sq ft, common for a two-car garage): $4,200 – $7,800 (The national average often falls around $4,700 to $6,000 for this size)
• Large Driveway (e.g., 1,000 sq ft, longer or wider driveways): $7,000 – $13,000
• Very Large/Long Driveway (e.g., 2,000 sq ft): $14,000 – $26,000

It’s important to remember these are estimates. Always obtain multiple quotes from local, reputable contractors for your specific project.

Understanding What’s Included in a Standard Quote

A typical quote for a new asphalt driveway installation ($7-$13 per square foot range) should generally include:

• Site Preparation (Basic): This often involves grading the area for proper drainage and preparing the existing sub-base. If significant excavation or removal of an old driveway is needed, this will be an additional.
• Sub-base Installation/Compaction: Installation of a new crushed stone or gravel aggregate sub-base (typically 4-8 inches deep for residential use, depending on soil conditions and climate) and its compaction. This is foundational for the driveway’s longevity.
• Asphalt Material: The price of the hot mix  (HMA). This usually includes a binder course (larger aggregate for strength) and a top/surface course (smaller aggregate for a smoother finish).
• Asphalt Installation: Laying and compacting the asphalt layers to the specified thickness (e.g., 2-3 inches total compacted depth is common for residential driveways).
• Equipment: Use of necessary machinery like excavators, graders, pavers, and rollers.
• Cleanup: Removal of debris related to the paving job.

What’s Often Not Included 

• Removal of an existing driveway: Concrete removal is significantly more expensive than asphalt removal. Grass/topsoil removal is usually less.
• Major excavation or re-grading: If your site has poor drainage or requires significant earthmoving.
• Complex drainage solutions: Such as French drains, culverts, or catch basins.
• Permits: If required by your municipality.
• Extensive tree root removal.
• Geotextile fabric under the sub-base: For very soft or unstable soils.

Key Factors 

• Driveway Size and Shape: The most straightforward factor. Larger and more complex shapes (curves, multiple angles) require more material and labor.
• Site Preparation:
  • Excavation & Removal: If there’s an existing driveway, it needs to be removed.
    • Old Asphalt Removal: roughly $1-$3 per square foot.
    • Concrete Removal: More labor-intensive, potentially $3-$6+ per square foot due to its weight and difficulty in breaking up.
    • Topsoil/Grass Removal: Less expensive but still a necessary step for new installations.
  • Grading & Slope: The land must be graded properly to ensure water drains away from your home’s foundation and off the driveway surface. Complex slopes requiring significant earthmoving, retaining walls, or fill material will add to the cost.
  • Sub-base Requirements: A stable sub-base of crushed aggregate (typically 4-8 inches, sometimes more in very cold climates or poor soil) is vital. If the existing soil is weak or drainage is poor, a thicker sub-base or soil stabilization might be needed.
• Asphalt Thickness:  Residential driveways typically have a compacted asphalt thickness of 2 to 3 inches, often laid in two layers: a binder course (larger aggregate for strength) and a surface course (smaller aggregate for a smoother finish). A thicker driveway (e.g., 3-4 inches) will cost more but offer greater durability, especially for heavier vehicles or in areas with freeze-thaw cycles. For example, increasing thickness by an inch could add $1-$2 per square foot.
• Mix Quality:
  • Hot Mix  (HMA): The standard for residential driveways, produced at high temperatures.
  • Aggregate Size: Different aggregate sizes are used for the binder and surface courses.
  • Recycled Asphalt Pavement (RAP): Incorporating RAP can sometimes offer a slight cost saving and is an environmentally friendly option, but the percentage used should be appropriate for performance.
  • Polymer Modified Asphalt: Can enhance performance in extreme temperatures.
• Drainage Requirements: Basic sloping for drainage is usually part of the grading. However, if your property requires more sophisticated drainage solutions like French drains, channel drains, or culverts to manage water runoff, these will be additional expenses.
• Accessibility of the Site: If the driveway location is difficult for large trucks and paving equipment to access (e.g., narrow passages, steep hills, obstacles), labor costs may increase.
• Geographic Location & Labor Rates: Labor costs vary significantly by region. Material costs can also fluctuate based on proximity to asphalt plants and quarries. Urban areas typically have higher labor rates than rural areas.
• Time of Year / Seasonality: Paving is weather-dependent. Asphalt needs warm, dry conditions to be installed and cure properly. The peak paving season (late spring to early fall) might see higher demand and prices. Paving in colder shoulder seasons might be possible but carries risks.
• Permits and Local Regulations: Some municipalities require permits for driveway installation or expansion, which come with a fee (usually $50-$200). There might also be regulations regarding driveway size, setbacks, or culvert requirements.
• Contractor Choice: The experience, reputation, overhead, insurance, and crew size of the contractor will influence their pricing. Established contractors with good warranties might charge more but offer better quality and peace of mind.

New Installation vs. Resurfacing vs. Repair

Depending on the condition of your existing surface, you might have options other than a full replacement.

• Full Replacement Costs & When It’s Needed:
  • Cost: $7-$13 per square foot (as detailed above).
  • When: This is necessary if the existing driveway is severely damaged (large cracks, potholes, crumbling edges, significant sinking, or alligator cracking indicating sub-base failure) or if there is no existing paved driveway. A full replacement addresses underlying issues by installing a new sub-base and new asphalt layers.
• Resurfacing Costs & When It’s an Option:
  • Cost: Typically $3-$7 per square foot.
  • When: An overlay (adding a new 1.5-2 inch layer of asphalt on top of the existing one) is a viable option if the current asphalt driveway is structurally sound with a stable sub-base but has surface-level issues like minor cracks, fading, or a worn appearance. The existing surface must be properly cleaned and any significant cracks or potholes repaired before resurfacing. It’s a cost-effective way to extend the life of a driveway that is still in decent shape. This is not suitable if there are foundational problems.
• Minor Repair Costs (Crack filling, patching):
  • Crack Filling: For minor cracks, DIY kits can cost $20-$50. Professional crack filling might cost $0.50-$3.00 per linear foot.
  • Patching Potholes: DIY cold patch asphalt is around $10-$20 per bag. Professional hot patch repairs can cost $100-$500+ per patch, depending on size and depth.
  These are temporary fixes and might be needed periodically.

Pros and Cons 

Driveway Material Cost Comparison Table

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) about Asphalt Driveway Costs

• How long does an asphalt driveway last?
  With proper installation and regular maintenance (like sealing), an asphalt driveway can last 15-25 years, sometimes longer in milder climates.
• How long after paving can I drive on it?
  Typically, you should wait 2-4 days before driving on a new asphalt driveway, and longer (up to a week) in very hot weather. Your contractor will provide specific guidance. Avoid parking in the same spot repeatedly for the first few weeks.
• When is the best time of year?
  Late spring, summer, and early fall are generally the best times. Asphalt needs ambient temperatures of at least 50°F (10°C) and rising, and dry conditions for proper installation and curing.
• What are common asphalt driveway problems and how are they fixed?
  • Cracks (Alligator, Longitudinal, Transverse): Filled with crack sealant. Widespread alligator cracking often indicates sub-base failure requiring more extensive repair or replacement.
  • Potholes: Patched with cold or hot mix asphalt.
  • Sinking/Depressions: Can be due to sub-base issues. May require cutting out the affected area, repairing the sub-base, and repaving.
  • Upheaval: Often caused by tree roots or frost heave.
• How often should I seal my asphalt driveway?
  After the initial sealcoat (6-12 months post-installation), reseal every 2-5 years, depending on your climate and the amount of traffic it receives.

Disclaimer: Prices mentioned in this article are estimates for informational purposes only and can vary significantly based on geographic location, specific project requirements, material costs, and the contractor chosen. It is highly recommended to obtain multiple detailed quotes from qualified local professionals for an accurate assessment of your project.