Resurfacing Of Blacktop Driveway

Blacktop driveway resurfacing, in its truest sense, involves applying a new layer of hot mix asphalt (typically 1 to 2 inches thick) over the existing, prepared surface. This process, also known as an asphalt overlay, effectively gives your driveway a new topcoat, restoring its appearance and structural integrity for many years.

Local contractors can provide precise costs based on your specific project variables. Contact experienced professionals here:

How is Resurfacing Different from Sealcoating, Patching, or Replacement?

Professional Asphalt Overlay (Hot Mix Asphalt)

This is the true resurfacing method that adds a new structural layer of asphalt. It is almost exclusively a professional job due to the specialized equipment and materials required.

• What to Expect – Detailed Steps Professionals Take:
  1. Initial Assessment and Edge Milling (Optional but Recommended): The contractor will assess the driveway. For a clean transition and to maintain proper drainage and height at garage aprons or walkways, they may mill (grind down) the edges of the existing driveway, typically 1-2 inches deep.
  2. Extensive Cleaning: The driveway surface is thoroughly cleaned using power brooms, blowers, and sometimes power washers to remove all dirt, debris, and loose asphalt.
  3. Structural Repairs: Significant cracks (wider than ½ inch) may be cleaned and filled with hot rubberized crack sealant. Damaged areas or potholes might be cut out, filled with new hot mix asphalt, and compacted.
  4. Leveling (If Needed): Minor depressions may be filled with a leveling course of asphalt and compacted before the main overlay.
  5. Application of Tack Coat (Adhesive): A thin layer of asphalt emulsion binder (tack coat or bond coat) is sprayed onto the cleaned, dry existing surface. This is critical for ensuring the new asphalt layer bonds properly to the old one, preventing slippage and premature failure.
  6. Paving with Hot Mix Asphalt: Hot mix asphalt (HMA), heated to around 300°F (150°C), is delivered by a specialized truck. It’s typically applied using a paving machine that spreads the asphalt to a consistent, specified thickness (usually 1.5 to 2 inches after compaction).
  7. Compaction: Immediately after paving, the new asphalt is compacted using heavy vibratory rollers. Proper compaction is essential for density, strength, durability, and a smooth finish. Multiple passes are made in specific patterns.
  8. Joints and Edges: Edges are typically hand-tamped or rolled to create a neat, beveled finish. Seams or joints are carefully compacted.
  9. Curing: The new asphalt surface needs time to cool and cure. Foot traffic might be allowed after 24 hours, but vehicle traffic should typically wait 3-5 days, or longer in hot weather.

Factors Influencing Cost

• Driveway Size: The primary driver of cost. Larger driveways require more materials and labor.
• Extent of Preparatory Repairs: Significant crack filling, patching, or edge milling will add to the cost.
• Thickness of the New Layer: A 2-inch overlay will cost more than a 1-inch or 1.5-inch overlay due to increased material.
• Type of Asphalt Mix: Different grades of asphalt mix exist; higher quality or specialized mixes may cost more.
• Accessibility of the Driveway: Difficult access for heavy equipment can increase labor costs.
• Mobilization Costs: Contractors have fixed costs for bringing equipment and crew to a site. This can make very small jobs disproportionately expensive on a per-square-foot basis.
• Geographic Location: Labor and material costs vary by region.

How Often Should You Resurface Your Blacktop Driveway?

• Professional Asphalt Overlay: A properly installed hot mix asphalt overlay can last 10 to 20 years, depending on the quality of the installation, climate, usage, and subsequent maintenance (like regular sealcoating). It is a much less frequent (and more intensive) process than sealcoating.
• DIY Resurfacer Products: These treatments are more cosmetic and offer limited protection. They typically need to be reapplied every 2 to 5 years.
• Distinction from Sealcoating: Sealcoating is a thinner, protective coating applied every 1-3 years to protect against oxidation, water, and chemical spills and to maintain a fresh black appearance. It does not add structural integrity like an overlay does. In addition to resurfacing when needed, it is advisable to sealcoat a resurfaced driveway (after it has fully cured, usually 6-12 months after the overlay) and then re-seal it periodically.

Choosing a Contractor 

Selecting the right contractor is key to a successful and long-lasting resurfacing job.

• Get Multiple Quotes: Obtain at least three detailed quotes from local, reputable contractors.
• Check Credentials and Insurance: Verify they are licensed (if required in your area) and carry liability insurance and worker’s compensation coverage.
• Experience and References: Ask about their experience specifically with resurfacing. Request references from recent, similar jobs and check them.
• Questions to Ask Potential Contractors:
  • How long have you been in business?
  • Can you provide proof of insurance and licensing?
  • What is your specific process for resurfacing a blacktop driveway like mine? (Listen for mentions of cleaning, crack repair, tack coat, asphalt thickness, and compaction).
  • What thickness of asphalt will you be applying after compaction? (1.5-2 inches is standard).
  • What type of asphalt mix do you use for overlays?
  • How will you address drainage?
  • Will you be milling the edges at the garage/sidewalk? Is this included?
  • What is your warranty for materials and workmanship? (Get it in writing).
  • How long will the job take, and when can I use my driveway?

Maintaining Tips

• Immediate Post-Resurfacing Care (First Few Weeks/Months):
  • Stay Off: Adhere strictly to the contractor’s instructions regarding how long to stay off the new asphalt (typically 3-5 days for vehicles, potentially longer in very hot weather).
  • Avoid Sharp Turns: For the first few weeks to a month, avoid turning your steering wheel while the car is stationary, as this can create power steering scuffs on the fresh, still-curing asphalt.
  • No Heavy Vehicles: Avoid parking heavy trucks, RVs, or trailers on the new surface for at least a month, or as advised.
  • Distribute Weight: Avoid parking in the exact same spot every day for the first few months. Do not use jack stands or place sharp objects directly on the asphalt, as it will still be somewhat soft and susceptible to indentations, especially in hot weather. Use plywood under jack stands or kickstands.
  • Be Gentle with Edges: The edges are the most vulnerable part of a new asphalt surface. Avoid driving off the edges.
• First Year Care:
  • Initial Sealcoating: Plan to sealcoat the newly resurfaced driveway 6 to 12 months after installation. This allows the asphalt to fully cure and the volatile oils to dissipate. Sealcoating too early can trap these oils and make the surface softer.
• Long-Term Maintenance:
  • Regular Sealcoating: Sealcoat the driveway every 2-3 years thereafter to protect it from oxidation, water penetration, and chemical spills.
  • Clean Promptly: Clean up oil, gasoline, or chemical spills immediately using appropriate cleaners to prevent staining and degradation.
  • Inspect Regularly: Periodically inspect for and fill any new cracks that may appear to prevent water from seeping in and causing further damage.
  • Manage Vegetation: Keep grass and weeds from growing along the edges, as their roots can damage the asphalt.

Signs You Need a Full Replacement

Resurfacing is not a cure-all. Applying a new layer of asphalt over a failing foundation will only provide a temporary fix, and the underlying problems will soon reappear. You likely need a full replacement if you observe:

• Deep, Wide Alligator Cracking Across Large Areas: Extensive, interconnected cracks resembling alligator skin (often wider than ½ inch and covering more than 25-30% of the driveway) usually indicate base failure. The sub-base can no longer support the asphalt.
• Significant Sinking or Heaving: Large areas of the driveway are noticeably sunken or pushed up, suggesting issues with the sub-base or drainage.
• Crumbling Edges: The edges of the driveway are breaking apart and cannot support an overlay.
• Potholes Deeper Than a Few Inches that Compromise the Base: Multiple large or deep potholes that show damage extending into the gravel base layer.
• Extensive Drainage Problems: Water consistently pools on the driveway, indicating improper grading that resurfacing alone might not fix.
• Age and Multiple Resurfacings: If the driveway is over 25-30 years old and has already been resurfaced multiple times, its structural life may be exhausted. Adding more layers can also create height issues relative to garages or walkways.